Post by Caddylack on Mar 6, 2022 17:12:19 GMT -6
CURRENT AFTERMARKET EXHAUST OPTIONS
FOR 91-96 GM B/D-BODY
First of all, thank you to Cory Magner aka MrBuick for his original sticky thread on this topic. He did a great job, but many years have since passed. The market has changed, and many of the links are dead. My goal here is to reproduce Cory’s thread with updated information, while retaining as much of his commentary as possible. This thread will focus on current market offerings. If you are looking for information on older discontinued parts, check out Cory's thread, here: Header & Catback options list.
Keep in mind that prices and inventory will fluctuate over time. In some cases a particular part may be sold by more than one vendor. Pricing information in this thread should be verified before making any relevant decisions.
MUFFLERS
Note: Since mufflers are a somewhat universal part, I won't go into too much detail. What you need to know is that the OEM mufflers on an LT1 B/D-body use the "offset/offset" configuration. This means that the inlet and outlet are on opposite sides of the muffler. For those who are keeping their stock exhaust pipes, you definitely want to stick with an OEM-style muffler that has a diameter of 2.25" for both the inlet and the outlet. Below are a few examples of common mufflers that are used with stock exhaust pipes. Check your retailer of choice for other options.
FOR 91-96 GM B/D-BODY
First of all, thank you to Cory Magner aka MrBuick for his original sticky thread on this topic. He did a great job, but many years have since passed. The market has changed, and many of the links are dead. My goal here is to reproduce Cory’s thread with updated information, while retaining as much of his commentary as possible. This thread will focus on current market offerings. If you are looking for information on older discontinued parts, check out Cory's thread, here: Header & Catback options list.
Keep in mind that prices and inventory will fluctuate over time. In some cases a particular part may be sold by more than one vendor. Pricing information in this thread should be verified before making any relevant decisions.
MUFFLERS
Note: Since mufflers are a somewhat universal part, I won't go into too much detail. What you need to know is that the OEM mufflers on an LT1 B/D-body use the "offset/offset" configuration. This means that the inlet and outlet are on opposite sides of the muffler. For those who are keeping their stock exhaust pipes, you definitely want to stick with an OEM-style muffler that has a diameter of 2.25" for both the inlet and the outlet. Below are a few examples of common mufflers that are used with stock exhaust pipes. Check your retailer of choice for other options.
HEADERS MARKETED FOR 1994-1996 GM B/D-BODY WITH LT1
Note from Cory: If they (headers) are not coated, they are either raw steel, or painted. If they are painted, the paint tends to burn off. The paint is intended to keep them from rusting in their box. Unless the headers are stainless, it is strongly urged that you have a coating on them. Even then, there are different grades of stainless; some better than others in terms of retaining heat, and not rusting. The coating does three things: (A) Keeps the heat in the headers, to protect other items under the hood, like wiring, sensors, spark plug wires, A/C lines, etc. (B) Protects the headers from rusting. (C) Potentially helps the car produce more power by retaining heat.
It is generally accepted that long-tubes are the way to go for the most performance. The only reason to use shorties is if your emissions test requires it, or you just can't bring yourself to use a non-bolt-in setup. It is also generally accepted that Tri-Ys (mid-length) will make the most power until around 5000-5500 RPM, and then past that, 4-1 headers (long-tubes) will make more power.
Note from me: While I know Cory is already aware, I should clarify for anyone reading that bigger is not always necessarily better in terms of exhaust (except on a turbo car, in which case that generally would be true). On naturally-aspirated engines, the entire exhaust system needs to be sized correctly for the power level and characteristics of the engine. Also, I think what Cory meant in (C) above was that retaining heat allows the oxygen sensors to function more effectively.
Note from Cory: If they (headers) are not coated, they are either raw steel, or painted. If they are painted, the paint tends to burn off. The paint is intended to keep them from rusting in their box. Unless the headers are stainless, it is strongly urged that you have a coating on them. Even then, there are different grades of stainless; some better than others in terms of retaining heat, and not rusting. The coating does three things: (A) Keeps the heat in the headers, to protect other items under the hood, like wiring, sensors, spark plug wires, A/C lines, etc. (B) Protects the headers from rusting. (C) Potentially helps the car produce more power by retaining heat.
It is generally accepted that long-tubes are the way to go for the most performance. The only reason to use shorties is if your emissions test requires it, or you just can't bring yourself to use a non-bolt-in setup. It is also generally accepted that Tri-Ys (mid-length) will make the most power until around 5000-5500 RPM, and then past that, 4-1 headers (long-tubes) will make more power.
Note from me: While I know Cory is already aware, I should clarify for anyone reading that bigger is not always necessarily better in terms of exhaust (except on a turbo car, in which case that generally would be true). On naturally-aspirated engines, the entire exhaust system needs to be sized correctly for the power level and characteristics of the engine. Also, I think what Cory meant in (C) above was that retaining heat allows the oxygen sensors to function more effectively.
| Clear Image Automotive Original Tri-Y | Starting at $575 |
| Clear Image Automotive Gen II Tri-Y | Starting at $745 |
| Clear Image Automotive Quad-1 | Starting at $755 |
| Clear Image Automotive Pro Series | Starting at $1550 |
| BBK Performance 1595-(chrome) | $550 |
| BBK Performance 15950-(ceramic) | $600 |
| Hooker Street Force 2063HKR-(painted) | $587 |
| Hooker Street Force 2063-1HKR-(ceramic) | $911 |
HEADERS MARKETED FOR FIRST GEN SBC
Note: The market for first gen SBC headers is extensive, so these are just a few select examples. These headers will fit LT1 cars if you are determined. Common issues to expect include, but are not limited to: trimming/removing frame braces, bending A/C lines, moving electrical wiring, etc. You may also have to add bung holes for the o2 sensors, which should be kept as close as possible to the original location. This is the "budget" option.
| Flowtech Afterburner 49100-(painted) | $312 |
| Flowtech Afterburner 49100-1-(ceramic) | $539 |
| Flowtech 11104-(painted) | $199 |
| Flowtech 31104-(ceramic) | $424 |
| Summit G9001-(painted) | $150 |
| Summit G9001-9-(ceramic) | $310 |
| Summit G9001-SS-(stainless) | $370 |
| Jegs 555-30060-(painted) | $207 |
| Jegs 555-30052-(painted) | $176 |
| Jegs 555-300550-(painted) | $203 |
| Doug's Headers D370Y-B-(bare) | $500 |
| Doug's Headers D370Y-(ceramic) | $760 |
| Hooker 2550-2HKR-(stainless) | $271 |
| Hedman 65104-(painted) | $297 |
| Hedman 66104-(ceramic) | $629 |
| XS-Power TBI truck headers-(stainless) | $152 |
| XS-Power LT1 F-body headers-(stainless) | $475 |
GEN 3/4/5 (LS/LT) SWAP HEADERS MARKETED FOR 94-96 GM B-BODY
Note: There are tons of these out there. I'm not going to bother listing the ultra-cheap China stuff. Below are some options from trusted brands that you can count on for your LS/LT swap.
Note: There are tons of these out there. I'm not going to bother listing the ultra-cheap China stuff. Below are some options from trusted brands that you can count on for your LS/LT swap.
| Hedman 45480 LS SWAP | $425 |
| Hedman 45483 LS SWAP | $701 |
| Hedman 45496 LS SWAP | $947 |
| Ultimate Headers 112091 GEN 5 LT SWAP | $1295 |
COMPLETE CAT-BACK EXHAUST SYSTEMS
Note: Below are the complete systems that are marketed for 94-96 GM B-body sedans. They will fit the D-body, aka Fleetwood, although the mid-pipes will need to be extended by several inches due to the longer wheelbase of the Fleetwood. Some modification to the over-the-axle pipes will be needed for proper fitment on wagons. These systems will also fit the 4.3L L99 cars, as well as the older SBC cars, as a dual exhaust conversion.
Note: Below are the complete systems that are marketed for 94-96 GM B-body sedans. They will fit the D-body, aka Fleetwood, although the mid-pipes will need to be extended by several inches due to the longer wheelbase of the Fleetwood. Some modification to the over-the-axle pipes will be needed for proper fitment on wagons. These systems will also fit the 4.3L L99 cars, as well as the older SBC cars, as a dual exhaust conversion.
| Clear Image Automotive | Starting at $630 |
| Jegs 555-30410 | $488 |
| Summit 680028 | $488 |
| Spintech | Starting at $979 |
| Pypes | Starting at $687 |
| Borla 14504 | $1432 |
GASKETS
Note on Earl’s Pressure Masters: These gaskets were recommended by Cory and others, and have long been considered the best gasket available for the LT1, but it seems they have been discontinued. Fortunately, there are still other nice gaskets on the market. Some of them are listed below, but there are many other options. You could even make your own copper gaskets by melting old pennies.
Note on Earl’s Pressure Masters: These gaskets were recommended by Cory and others, and have long been considered the best gasket available for the LT1, but it seems they have been discontinued. Fortunately, there are still other nice gaskets on the market. Some of them are listed below, but there are many other options. You could even make your own copper gaskets by melting old pennies.
| Remflex 2042 | $37.49 |
| Mr. Gasket 7404G | $32.16 |
| Fel-Pro 1406 | $24.99 |
| Fel-Pro 1470 | $36.99 |
HARDWARE, ETC.
Note: The ARP bolts listed below are pretty universally accepted as being the best choice. There are certainly other options, and some may be cheaper, but you can’t go wrong with ARP hardware.
Note: The ARP bolts listed below are pretty universally accepted as being the best choice. There are certainly other options, and some may be cheaper, but you can’t go wrong with ARP hardware.
| ARP 400-1210 (bolts) | $33.99 |
Thread Size: 3/8"-16
Head Style: External 12-point
Under head Length (in): 1.000"
Under head Length (mm): 25 mm
Fastener Material: Stainless steel
Fastener Finish: Natural
Head Style: External 12-point
Under head Length (in): 1.000"
Under head Length (mm): 25 mm
Fastener Material: Stainless steel
Fastener Finish: Natural
| Walker 41726 (female ball flange) | $9.99 each, two per vehicle |
| Walker 35725 (OEM-style rubber hanger) | $5.99 each |
| Dynomax 54812 (universal 2.5" X-pipe) | $128 |
CATALYTIC CONVERTERS
Note: Some jurisdictions conduct emissions testing and inspections that may require catalytic converters. Always check your local laws and regulations before modifying your exhaust or emissions systems. It is a federal crime for a shop to remove a catalytic converter and replace it with anything other than another catalytic converter. Some shops are willing to bend the rules, and some are not. If you are serious about cat-less exhaust, be prepared to ask around.
The OEM cats on the LT1 B-body use 2.25" diameter pipe for both the inlet and the outlet. 1994 & 1995 cars utilizing OBD1 had one oxygen sensor per cat, for a total of two per car. 1996 OBD2 cars had two sensors per cat, for a total of four (4) per vehicle. Since the additional two sensors used in 1996 only function as monitors of catalytic converter function, they can be deleted if desired, and do not affect how the engine runs.
For those who are wondering: Yes, deleting your cats will make your exhaust stink more. It will also make your exhaust slightly louder. On a naturally aspirated engine, any performance gain will be very minimal, except in the case of a clogged or defective cat. If performance is your concern, rest assured that there are plenty of high-flow cats on the market available in all shapes and sizes. Keep in mind that cats are virtually always worth good money in scrap due to the precious metals inside. Even with a mouse nest, I still get $75 cash per converter locally. Scrap prices fluctuate and vary by region. I have heard that some areas are enacting restrictions due to widespread theft of catalytic converters.
Universal high-flow cats are beyond the scope of this thread, but I will post examples of decent bolt-in replacements for our OEM cats.
Note: Some jurisdictions conduct emissions testing and inspections that may require catalytic converters. Always check your local laws and regulations before modifying your exhaust or emissions systems. It is a federal crime for a shop to remove a catalytic converter and replace it with anything other than another catalytic converter. Some shops are willing to bend the rules, and some are not. If you are serious about cat-less exhaust, be prepared to ask around.
The OEM cats on the LT1 B-body use 2.25" diameter pipe for both the inlet and the outlet. 1994 & 1995 cars utilizing OBD1 had one oxygen sensor per cat, for a total of two per car. 1996 OBD2 cars had two sensors per cat, for a total of four (4) per vehicle. Since the additional two sensors used in 1996 only function as monitors of catalytic converter function, they can be deleted if desired, and do not affect how the engine runs.
For those who are wondering: Yes, deleting your cats will make your exhaust stink more. It will also make your exhaust slightly louder. On a naturally aspirated engine, any performance gain will be very minimal, except in the case of a clogged or defective cat. If performance is your concern, rest assured that there are plenty of high-flow cats on the market available in all shapes and sizes. Keep in mind that cats are virtually always worth good money in scrap due to the precious metals inside. Even with a mouse nest, I still get $75 cash per converter locally. Scrap prices fluctuate and vary by region. I have heard that some areas are enacting restrictions due to widespread theft of catalytic converters.
Universal high-flow cats are beyond the scope of this thread, but I will post examples of decent bolt-in replacements for our OEM cats.
EXHAUST FOR TURBO CARS
Note: Turbo builds are beyond the scope of this thread, but I will provide a few basic links to help assist those considering going down this path.
Note: Turbo builds are beyond the scope of this thread, but I will provide a few basic links to help assist those considering going down this path.
| XS-Power single turbo exhaust setup for SBC | $350 |
| XS-Power dual turbo manifolds for SBC | $250 |
| XS-Power complete GT45 turbo kit for SBC | $800 |
IN CONCLUSION
Hopefully this gives you a general idea of what exhaust upgrades are available to you currently. If you find any of this information to be incorrect, or if I have forgotten anything important, please send me a PM.
Hopefully this gives you a general idea of what exhaust upgrades are available to you currently. If you find any of this information to be incorrect, or if I have forgotten anything important, please send me a PM.